This list contains the tools and supplies we suggest for the copper foil method of stained glass.

Every item is optional; check the box and enter your desired quantity. You may pick up your order for free at one of our locations. Orders of less than ten items and $100 have the option to be shipped at a flat rate.

For more detailed information about each product, click the icon next to the product name.

Gryphette Grinder

A grinder is a must for the copper foil method. Not grinding will lead to projects falling apart. A grinder is also helpful when doing the lead method. 

With care, your grinder will likely outlive you! So it's worth investing in a piece of equipment you enjoy using. This grinder is a great compact option and what we use in our classes!

Gryphon Face Shield for Gryphette Grinder

This is an optional upgrade to the Gryphette Grinder. The shield will allow you to look over the top of grinding bit without worry of glass dust.

1/8 in. Grinder Head/Bit Twofers 2-Pack Standard Grit

Top bits are for grinding small indented pieces that a regular bit is too wide to fit. We always suggest our students have one on hand.

The Grinder (16 x 12 in. work surface)

The latest technology in the stained glass grinder world! We have one in the studio, and it's pretty nice! :)

Mini G Bit System (1/4 and 1/8 in. Grinder Bits)

This bit is specifically for "The Grinder" it uses an internal thread within the shaft rather than securing onto it. Top bits for small indented pieces. Nice to have before you need it. They last a lifetime!

Safety Glasses

Glass powder, flux, or solder + eyeballs = not good.

Masking Tape

This stuff is great! We use it in the studio to hold down our patterns, hold the project together while grinding, and all kinds of other things!

12 in. Unruled Cutting Square

A must-have around the studio! Used for drawing, setting up workboards, and squaring off sheets of glass, we have one nearby at all times!

Work Board

Used to build your project on and to keep it stable. We do not sell plywood. It can be purchased from and cut at your local hardware store. [Here is a link ](https://www.homedepot.com/p/Handprint-1-2-in-x-2-ft-x-4-ft-Sande-Plywood-103078/202093791)to the product we purchase at home depot.

Temporarily unavailable

Straps

When building a project that is a square or rectangle, it's essential to build against straps that in a 90-degree angle. Doing so ensures that your project is in the intended shape when completed. Straps can also be used to ensure your project is the proper size when finished. We do not sell straps. They can be purchased from your local hardware store. [Here is a link](https://www.homedepot.com/p/Waddell-36-in-x-3-4-in-Hardwood-Square-Dowel-8312U/100536762) to the product we purchase at Home Depot.

Temporarily unavailable

#8 Hex Shank Countersink Drill Bit

We countersink and drill pilot holes for our straps. This handy tool does both at once. Pilot holes avoid the strap splitting when you use your screw, and countersinking keeps the screws from scratching your arms or snagging your sleeves. The project looks much better on your table than on the floor.

#8 x 3/4" Wood Screw 50PCS Black Phosphate (for straps)

When using our suggested straps and workboard sizes, these screws are the proper size to prevent going through your workboard. In addition, the black phosphate prevents oxidation from flux.

Sharpie Black Marker Pen (Fine Tip)

Used for tracing templates onto the glass. Also used to do burnishing steps on foiling.
Black for light colors, silver for dark colors.

Sharpie Metallic Silver Marker Pen (Fine point)

Used for tracing templates onto the glass. Also used to do burnishing steps on foiling.
Black for light colors, silver for dark colors.

3/16 x 3/16 in. H-Round Lead Came

Lead came is sold by the type of channel (H or U). The shape of the faces (round or flat) and the size of the channel and face (3/16"). 

There are many sizes available our most commonly used are 3/16 H-Round for building and 1/2 H-Flat for framing large lead panels. 

Lead came is sold by the 6ft strip. A case contains 55 (6 foot) strips of lead. To order a full case enter a quantity of 55.

Studio Pro Lead Vise

Lead came must be stretched before being used in your project. This vise mounts to a tabletop to allow you to stretch the lead. 

Fan Out Lead Dyke

For cutting lead came cleanly and accurately. Only brand we use for cutting lead.

Glazing Hammer

Your best friend, for the leaded method. Used for putting nails in place, the hammer has a hard plastic side for nails and a rubber side for tapping glass into position.

Precision Knife Set, 13 Piece

A handy tool in the lead came method for marking the faces of your lead before making cuts. It also includes other Exacto knives and blades, which, why not? 

Horseshoe nails (box of 100)

When building in the leaded method, horseshoe nails are used in combination with scrap pieces of lead to hold your project together in the building process.

Weller 100 Watt Temp Control Soldering Iron

This iron is a tried and true workhorse! Our preferred soldering iron in classes and our studio work. 

The iron regulates the temperature by the type of tip. Many other soldering irons require a separate rheostat for controlling the temperature.

Choice Soldering Iron Stand

Holds iron safely.

Plastic Handle Wire Brush

For roughing up the surface of zinc or lead came in preparation for soldering. Having bare, clean metal exposed is crucial to getting the solder to adhere. 

Choice 60/ 40 Solder (1 lb. Spool)

You gotta solder! We prefer and exclusively use 60/40 solder because it flows at a slightly lower temperature making it easier to achieve a smooth-looking finish for all experience levels.

Nitrile Gloves

We find gloves with nitrile-coated palms to offer the best balance of protection and dexterity when soldering.

Flux Brush - Individual Brush

Chemical resistant acid brush for flux. Remember to use a different brush for each type of flux (liquid vs. paste) to avoid mixing chemicals or unexpected reactions.

Key item for foil and lead

Nokorode Paste Flux -1.7 OZ

Flux aids the flow of solder. Paste flux is ideal for the lead came method because it stays where you put it.

Handy Hanger (12 Pack)

This 12-pack of brass hangers is an excellent ready-to-attach alternative to making your own!

Tin Copper Wire (16 Gauge) 4 oz Spool

Pre-tinned (covered in solder) copper wire. This wire is excellent for making hangers or details. Since it comes pre-tinned, it's easier to attach than bare copper wire.

Tin Copper Wire (16 Gauge) 1 Pound Spool

Pre-tinned (covered in solder) copper wire. This wire is excellent for making hangers or details. Since it comes pre-tinned, it's easier to attach than bare copper wire.

Choice Breaker/ Grozer Pliers

In the studio, it's a cardinal sin to use our "cutting" grozers for anything other than cutting. 

That said, you need something to do wirework and all the other stuff! These make for an inexpensive option you won't feel guilty about abusing a little.

Choice Super Lead Dyke

Cutting wire used to make hangers and details. These are not good ones for lead came.

Mini Miter Cut-Off Chop Saw

This little saw is fantastic for cutting the most common sizes of zinc used for stained glass. It's big enough to do its job without being intimidating and loud. 

We use this saw in class for our master's students with great success!

9/32 in. Border U Zinc Came

This size is commonly used for framing projects. It is rigid, so a saw is required to cut it accurately. You can cut it with a pair of dykes; however, it's challenging to do so cleanly. 

Zinc is for framing finished pieces; though it adds some structural strength, it is primarily for the look of a finished outer edge. Zinc framing is sold per 6ft stick or by 22 lb. case. A case contains 63 (6 foot) sticks. To order a full case enter a quantity of 63.

Plastic Lead Fid/ Lathekin/ Stopping Knife

Affectionately nicknamed "Ken" a lathekin, is the multi-tool of the stained glass world. Primarily used for stretching open zinc came, it has many other uses and names!

Miracle Mudd Black (Large)++

Glazing or mudding is the process of sealing and waterproofing a leaded glass window. There are many different recipes and formulas for glazing compounds. This product is easy to prepare two-part mixture we use during classes and for repair projects.

Miracle Mudd Black++

Glazing or mudding is the process of sealing and waterproofing a leaded glass window. There are many different recipes and formulas for glazing compounds. This product is easy to prepare two-part mixture we use during classes and for repair projects.

Small Cement Brush (4-3/4 in.)

When glazing or mudding, a stiff, short-bristle brush is your best friend for removing the buildup of the glazing compound. This brush is a fantastic option.

Saw Dust

Used during the glazing/mudding process to absorb excess oils from the mudding compound.

Whiting (1.5 lbs)

This container is a lot of whiting, but unfortuantly the smallest size available. You use a minimal amount for each project. You can expect this container to last a long time!

You'll want a shaker with a small number of holes to help dispense it onto your panel.

Whiting Shaker

This shaker is perfect for dispensing the small amount of whiting needed on your project before buffing!

Drill Mount Lead Brush

Used with the whitening to finish off your project.

Steel Wool

It's the magic eraser of glass. You can use it to remove sharpie, shine the solder, and many other tasks. Always ensure you use extra fine to avoid scratching softer glass.

The listed is per pad.

Novacan Black Patina for Zinc (8oz)++

Patina is available for zinc; however, in our experience, we have found that it is not very effective. In addition, it can produce an inconsistent finish. Therefore, we typically discourage our students from utilizing it. 

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