Key item for the copper foil method and very nice to have with the lead came method.

This grinder is the one we utilize in classes. It's a small form factor and a great workhorse. Having a larger deck makes the process easier when working with large or lots of projects.

Check out "The Grinder" for the latest and greatest grinder technology on the market. 

Most grinders last a lifetime. So it's worth getting a product you enjoy using!

This is an optional upgrade to the Gryphette Grinder. The shield will allow you to look over the top of grinding bit without worry of glass dust.

Not a key item but very nice to have for the copper foil method.

Top bits are for grinding small indented pieces that a regular bit is too wide to fit. We always suggest our students have one on hand. You can avoid needing one of these if you always plan your designs around the size of bit you have. (That's very difficult..)

Key item for the copper foil method and very nice to have with the lead came method.

"The Grinder" is the latest and greatest in glass grinder technology. It has excellent features and is certainly nice to use! We have one we utilize for commission projects and wish we had more. 

That said, the latest and greatest is not a requirement! The Gryphette grinder we use in classes is a less expensive option that gets the job done all the same.

Most grinders last a lifetime. So it's worth getting a product you enjoy using!

Not a key item, but very nice to have.

This bit is specifically for "The Grinder" it uses an internal thread within the shaft rather than securing onto it. Top bits for small indented pieces. Nice to have before you need it. They last a lifetime!

Glass powder, flux, or solder + eyeballs = not good.

This stuff is great! We use it in the studio to hold down our patterns, hold the project together while grinding, and all kinds of other things!

Key item for glass cutting, copper foil and lead came methods.

A must-have around the studio! Used for drawing, setting up work boards, and squaring off sheets of glass, we have one nearby at all times!
This square has the perfect size lip to catch the edge of the glass unlike many sold elsewhere.

Used to build your project on and to keep it stable. We do not sell plywood. It can be purchased from and cut at your local hardware store. [Here is a link ](https://www.homedepot.com/p/Handprint-1-2-in-x-2-ft-x-4-ft-Sande-Plywood-103078/202093791)to the product we purchase at home depot.

When building a project that is a square or rectangle, it's essential to build against straps that in a 90-degree angle. Doing so ensures that your project is in the intended shape when completed. Straps can also be used to ensure your project is the proper size when finished. We do not sell straps. They can be purchased from your local hardware store. [Here is a link](https://www.homedepot.com/p/Waddell-36-in-x-3-4-in-Hardwood-Square-Dowel-8312U/100536762) to the product we purchase at Home Depot.

We countersink and drill pilot holes for our straps. This handy tool does both at once. Pilot holes avoid the strap splitting when you use your screw, and countersinking keeps the screws from scratching your arms or snagging your sleeves. The project looks much better on your table than on the floor.

When using our suggested straps and workboard sizes, these screws are the proper size to prevent going through your workboard. In addition, the black phosphate prevents oxidation from flux.

Used for tracing templates onto the glass. Also used to do burnishing steps on foiling.
Black for light colors, silver for dark colors.

Used for tracing templates onto the glass. Also used to do burnishing steps on foiling.
Black for light colors, silver for dark colors.

Key item in completing the lead came method.

Lead came is sold by the type of channel (H or U). The shape of the faces (round or flat) and the size of the channel and face (3/16"). 

There are many sizes available our most commonly used are 3/16 H-Round for building and 1/2 H-Flat for framing large lead panels. 

Lead came is sold by the 6ft strip. A case contains 55 (6 foot) strips of lead. To order a full case enter a quantity of 55.

Lead came must be stretched before being used in your project. This vise mounts to a tabletop to allow you to stretch the lead. 

Key item for building in the lead came method.

If you've taken a class from us, you'll know tools matter. A damaged or low-quality tool only causes additional frustration and setbacks in improving your skills. 

This pair of dykes is the only one we use for building in the lead method. The quality far surpasses that of the Choice Lead Dykes. That said, ensure you have a pair of "crap" dykes for wire and zinc! 

Never use your lead dykes to cut anything but lead!

Key item for the lead came method and nice to have for copper foil when adding zinc to the panel. 

Your best friend, for the leaded method. Used for putting nails in place, the hammer has a hard plastic side for nails and a rubber side for tapping glass into position.

A handy tool in the lead came method for marking the faces of your lead before making cuts. It also includes other Exacto knives and blades, which, why not? 

Key item for the lead came method.

When building in the leaded method, horseshoe nails are used in combination with scrap pieces of lead to hold your project together in the building process.

Key item for soldering.

This iron is a tried and true workhorse! Our preferred soldering iron in classes and our studio work. 

The iron regulates the temperature by the type of tip. Many other soldering irons require a separate rheostat for controlling the temperature.

Key item for soldering.

Holds iron safely.

Key item for soldering lead and zinc.

For roughing up the surface of zinc or lead came in preparation for soldering. Having bare, clean metal exposed is crucial to getting the solder to adhere. 

You gotta solder! We prefer and exclusively use 60/40 solder because it flows at a slightly lower temperature making it easier to achieve a smooth-looking finish for all experience levels.

We find gloves with nitrile-coated palms to offer the best balance of protection and dexterity when soldering.

Key item for soldering.

Chemical resistant acid brush for flux. Remember to use a different brush for each type of flux (liquid vs. paste) to avoid mixing chemicals or unexpected reactions. 

Flux aids the flow of solder. Paste flux is ideal for the lead came method because it stays where you put it.

This 12-pack of brass hangers is an excellent ready-to-attach alternative to making your own!

Pre-tinned (covered in solder) copper wire. This wire is excellent for making hangers or details. Since it comes pre-tinned, it's easier to attach than bare copper wire.

Pre-tinned (covered in solder) copper wire. This wire is excellent for making hangers or details. Since it comes pre-tinned, it's easier to attach than bare copper wire.

Super helpful and key for doing wire and zinc.

In the studio, it's a cardinal sin to use our "cutting" grozers for anything other than cutting. 

That said, you need something to do wirework and all the other stuff! These make for an inexpensive option you won't feel guilty about abusing a little.

Super helpful and key for doing wire and zinc.

In the studio, using your lead dykes for anything other than cutting lead is a cardinal sin. Doing so leaves impressions in the jaws of your dykes which appear when you cut your lead. So it's a big no-no. 

These dykes are an inexpensive option you don't feel guilty about abusing by munching away on wire or zinc. 

We do not suggest these for building lead came projects. A higher quality tool like the Fan Out Lead Dykes makes the process easier. 

This little saw is fantastic for cutting the most common sizes of zinc used for stained glass. It's big enough to do its job without being intimidating and loud. 

We use this saw in class for our master's students with great success!

Key item for the lead came method, nice to have to the copper foil method.

This size is commonly used for framing projects. It is rigid, so a saw is required to cut it accurately. You can cut it with a pair of dykes; however, it's challenging to do so cleanly. 

Zinc is for framing finished pieces; for copper foil projects, it is primarily cosmetic, only adding a small amount of strength. For lead came projects, it aids in keeping the lead sound by providing a rigid frame.

Zinc framing is sold per 6ft stick or by 22 lb. case. A case contains 63 (6 foot) sticks. To order an entire case, enter a quantity of 63.

Affectionately nicknamed "Ken" a lathekin, is the multi-tool of the stained glass world. Primarily used for stretching open zinc came, it has many other uses and names!

Key item for the lead came method.

Glazing or mudding is the process of sealing and waterproofing a leaded glass window. There are many different recipes and formulas for glazing compounds. This product is easy to prepare two-part mixture we use during classes and for repair projects.

Glazing or mudding is the process of sealing and waterproofing a leaded glass window. There are many different recipes and formulas for glazing compounds. This product is easy to prepare two-part mixture we use during classes and for repair projects.

When glazing or mudding, a stiff, short-bristle brush is your best friend for removing the buildup of the glazing compound. This brush is a fantastic option.

Used during the glazing/mudding process to absorb excess oils from the mudding compound.

This container is a lot of whiting, but unfortuantly the smallest size available. You use a minimal amount for each project. You can expect this container to last a long time!

You'll want a shaker with a small number of holes to help dispense it onto your panel.

Key item for finishing lead came projects. Nice to have for copper foil projects.

Used with a handheld drill on projects with whitening to shine up the glass and darken the solder/lead lines. For lead came projects, it turns all lead lines a consistent color and removes the final amounts of glazing left behind. 

It's the magic eraser of glass. You can use it to remove sharpie, shine the solder, and many other tasks. Always ensure you use extra fine to avoid scratching softer glass.

The listed is per pad.

Patina is available for zinc; however, in our experience, we have found that it is not very effective. In addition, it can produce an inconsistent finish. Therefore, we typically discourage our students from utilizing it.