A grinder is a must for the copper foil method. Not grinding will lead to projects falling apart. A grinder is also helpful when doing the lead method. 

With care, your grinder will likely outlive you! So it's worth investing in a piece of equipment you enjoy using. This grinder is a great compact option and what we use in our classes!

This is an optional upgrade to the Gryphette Grinder. The shield will allow you to look over the top of grinding bit without worry of glass dust.

Top bits are for grinding small indented pieces that a regular bit is too wide to fit. We always suggest our students have one on hand.

The latest technology in the stained glass grinder world! We have one in the studio, and it's pretty nice! :)

This bit is specifically for "The Grinder" it uses an internal thread within the shaft rather than securing onto it. Top bits for small indented pieces. Nice to have before you need it. They last a lifetime!

Glass powder, flux, or solder + eyeballs = not good.

This stuff is great! We use it in the studio to hold down our patterns, hold the project together while grinding, and all kinds of other things!

Cotton towels around the studio are a must! You'll use it for everything from drying while grinding to buffing your piece. These are the towels we use in our classes. Trust us; we've tried a lot of different types!

A must-have around the studio! Used for drawing, setting up workboards, and squaring off sheets of glass, we have one nearby at all times!

Used to build your project on and to keep it stable. We do not sell plywood. It can be purchased from and cut at your local hardware store. [Here is a link ](https://www.homedepot.com/p/Handprint-1-2-in-x-2-ft-x-4-ft-Sande-Plywood-103078/202093791)to the product we purchase at home depot.

When building a project that is a square or rectangle, it's essential to build against straps that in a 90-degree angle. Doing so ensures that your project is in the intended shape when completed. Straps can also be used to ensure your project is the proper size when finished. We do not sell straps. They can be purchased from your local hardware store. [Here is a link](https://www.homedepot.com/p/Waddell-36-in-x-3-4-in-Hardwood-Square-Dowel-8312U/100536762) to the product we purchase at Home Depot.

We countersink and drill pilot holes for our straps. This handy tool does both at once. Pilot holes avoid the strap splitting when you use your screw, and countersinking keeps the screws from scratching your arms or snagging your sleeves. The project looks much better on your table than on the floor.

When using our suggested straps and workboard sizes, these screws are the proper size to prevent going through your workboard. In addition, the black phosphate prevents oxidation from flux.

Used for tracing templates onto the glass. Also used to do burnishing steps on foiling.
Black for light colors, silver for dark colors.

Used for tracing templates onto the glass. Also used to do burnishing steps on foiling.
Black for light colors, silver for dark colors.

Thread snips make a great option when foiling. They are more convenient to pick up and lay down without changing your hand position. 

1/4" is often used for beginners and is somewhat easier to center than smaller options. 1/4'' may also be preferred when looking for a stronger finished product.

This size is commonly used with intricate projects or projects with smaller pieces. The smaller the foil, the more difficult it is to center!

Copper foil comes in various sizes and with different adhesive options. We prefer and offer the black back adhesive variety. 

This size is the most commonly used! It's not too small or too large. It's slightly more challenging to keep centered than 1/4" foil, but a bit of practice and you'll be on your way.

Copper foil comes in various sizes and with different adhesive options. We prefer and offer the black back adhesive variety. 

This iron is a tried and true workhorse! Our preferred soldering iron in classes and our studio work. 

The iron regulates the temperature by the type of tip. Many other soldering irons require a separate rheostat for controlling the temperature.

Holds iron safely.

We find gloves with nitrile-coated palms to offer the best balance of protection and dexterity when soldering.

You gotta solder! We prefer and exclusively use 60/40 solder because it flows at a slightly lower temperature making it easier to achieve a smooth-looking finish for all experience levels.

Flux aids the flow of solder. Liquid flux is ideal for the copper foil method because it is easy to thinly apply to all of the foil, which aids in the solder looking smooth. 

Chemical resistant acid brush for flux. Remember to use a different brush for each type of flux (liquid vs. paste) to avoid mixing chemicals or unexpected reactions.

Key item for foil and lead

This 12-pack of brass hangers is an excellent ready-to-attach alternative to making your own!

Pre-tinned (covered in solder) copper wire. This wire is excellent for making hangers or details. Since it comes pre-tinned, it's easier to attach than bare copper wire.

Pre-tinned (covered in solder) copper wire. This wire is excellent for making hangers or details. Since it comes pre-tinned, it's easier to attach than bare copper wire.

In the studio, it's a cardinal sin to use our "cutting" grozers for anything other than cutting. 

That said, you need something to do wirework and all the other stuff! These make for an inexpensive option you won't feel guilty about abusing a little.

Cutting wire used to make hangers and details. These are not good ones for lead came.

This little saw is fantastic for cutting the most common sizes of zinc used for stained glass. It's big enough to do its job without being intimidating and loud. 

We use this saw in class for our master's students with great success!

This size is commonly used for framing projects. It is rigid, so a saw is required to cut it accurately. You can cut it with a pair of dykes; however, it's challenging to do so cleanly. 

Zinc is for framing finished pieces; though it adds some structural strength, it is primarily for the look of a finished outer edge. Zinc framing is sold per 6ft stick or by 22 lb. case. A case contains 63 (6 foot) sticks. To order a full case enter a quantity of 63.

This size is commonly used for framing small finished pieces. It is flexible enough to be bent around circular panels' edges.

This zinc is for framing finished pieces; though it adds some structural strength, it is primarily for the look of a finished outer edge. Zinc framing is sold per 6ft stick. A case contains 173 (6 foot) sticks. To order a full case enter a quantity of 173.

Affectionately nicknamed "Ken" a lathekin, is the multi-tool of the stained glass world. Primarily used for stretching open zinc came, it has many other uses and names!

Patina is a chemical treatment that changes the color of the solder as a final finish for your project. Black patina helps to hide soldering imperfections, while the dark solder lines help to make your colors stand out. 

Patina is available for zinc; however, in our experience, we have found that it is not very effective. In addition, it can produce an inconsistent finish. Therefore, we typically discourage our students from utilizing it. 

It's the magic eraser of glass. You can use it to remove sharpie, shine the solder, and many other tasks. Always ensure you use extra fine to avoid scratching softer glass.

The listed is per pad.

Used to polish, seal, and shine a finished piece.